Compost Tips for the Home Gardener

What Is Compost?

Compost is a dark, crumbly material created when microorganisms break down organic matter such as leaves, grass clippings and kitchen waste. Compost is not completely decomposed (like humus); it will contain small pieces of debris that can be recognized as bits of twigs and leaves.

Why Compost?

Converting yard debris to compost has many benefits. It is an environmentally friendly way to reduce the amount of solid waste that must be disposed of, and it provides useful and beneficial products for yards and gardens. Compost is an excellent soil amendment that improves the health and structure of both sandy and clay soils. It can be applied on top of soil as mulch. Mixed with other components, it makes a good potting soil and some gardeners brew it in water to make a compost “tea” for plants.

What Can Be Composted?

Two types of materials are needed for successful composting: “green” materials, which are rich in nitrogen, and “brown” materials, which are rich in carbon. Table 1shows the types of materials that are considered “browns” and “greens.

Twigs and branches greater than 1/4 inch in diameter and fibrous palm fronds should be processed in a shredder/chipper before composting. Leaves, especially waxy types such as live oak, laurel oak, water oak, and magnolia, also break down faster if they are shredded. Sawdust and other wood scraps can be composted, but they take a long time to decompose.

Keep seed-laden weeds, diseased plants and nematode-infested roots out of the compost pile since it is difficult for most home composting units to reach the high temperatures (130-140°F) needed to destroy these pests. Meat, bones, and foods with oils, dressings, or fats, should not be composted because they may attract animals or produce an objectionable odor. The manure of animals that eat plants (cows, horses, etc.) is a great “green” material for a compost pile. However, carnivorous animal waste (dogs, cats, etc.) should not be used due to the possibility of diseases.

Building a Compost Pile

Composting is all about supplying the microorganisms that do the decomposing with the essentials of life: food, water and oxygen. Microbial activity is affected by the proportion of carbon (brown materials) to nitrogen (green materials). This is commonly referred to as the “C/N ratio.” The optimum C/N ratio for rapid composting is about 30/1 or less. Table 2 lists the approximate C/N ratio for materials commonly used for composting.

A compost pile or unit should be sited in an area protected from drying winds and where it can be reached with a hose. Place it in a shaded area where you will be more comfortable when you “work” it. Depending on what type of compost “unit” you buy or build, you may want it screened from view by neighbors and yourself. Keep in mind that there is nothing magical about commercial compost units; they are simply holding units and will not produce compost any faster or better than a simple pile. The most important feature is that the pile or unit be a minimum of 3' x 3' x 3'. Refer to Fact Sheet AE23 “Construction of Home Compost Units” for more information. It is available on the web:

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/HE026 http://solutionsforyourlife.ufl.edu/map/

To create the compost pile, layer roughly equal amounts of “green” materials and “brown” materials in alternating 3- to 4-inch tiers up to a height of about 3 feet. Smaller particles will decompose faster than larger materials. It is essential that each layer be watered as you build the pile; otherwise it is almost impossible to moisten the center of the pile once it is completed. The materials should be moist, not soggy. There is no advantage to purchasing a compost “starter,” since organic yard wastes naturally contain the microorganisms needed to start the decomposition process.

Managing a Compost Pile

A new pile of green and brown materials will heat up rapidly. This is a reflection of the microbial activity. After 4-7 days, it will begin to cool and should be turned at this time to mix the materials and allow the pile to heat again. A hot pile will often produce steam, but this is nothing to worry about. Compost can be produced fairly rapidly (about six weeks) if the pile is occasionally turned and watered (if dry). Turning also shifts material from the outer (cooler) part of the pile to the warmer center. It may be necessary to add more water during the composting period if the pile appears dry. Materials added to a compost pile or unit which is not turned or watered will still decompose. It will just take much longer.

If you are interested in monitoring the temperature of the pile, use a long-stemmed compost thermometer that reads to 160° F or higher. The most effective range for composting seems to be 122°F - 131°F. Higher temperatures of 131°F - 140°F may be desirable to destroy weed seeds or plant pathogens, but it is difficult to maintain a pile at that temperature. At temperatures above 149°F many of the organisms involved in composting become inactive or die. If the pile becomes too hot, decrease the intervals between turnings.

How to Use Compost

Compost is ready to use when it is dark brown and crumbly. If the texture is not uniform, the compost can be sifted through a screen to remove larger pieces, which can then be returned to the pile for further composting.

Compost is a wonderful soil additive – especially to Florida's poor, sandy soils. Use only finished compost as a soil amendment. Otherwise, microorganisms will “rob” nutrients from plants as they continue to decompose the unfinished compost. Add 1-3 inches of compost to the soil surface and mix it to a depth of 4-6 inches. Compost can also be used as mulch. This is a particularly good use of unfinished compost. It will continue to break down, and, like all mulches, will need to be re-applied once or twice a year. As a potting mix, use only finished compost and blend it with a material that improves the drainage of the mix such as coarse sand, perlite, or vermiculite.

Compost contains small amounts of nitrogen and micronutrients which can be extracted for a plant “tea.” Fill a bag made of cheesecloth, burlap or some other woven fabric with compost and soak it in a bucket of water for one hour. Use the resulting tea as a weak, liquid fertilizer.

Troubleshooting a Compost Pile

Table 3 provides information on common composting problems, their causes and how to solve them.

References

1. Sydney Park Brown. Yard Trash to Garden Treasure, Horticulture and Water Management, Hillsborough County Cooperative Extension Service, Sponsored by Hillsborough County Solid Waste Department.

2. Roger A. Nordstedt and Anne W. Barkdoll. 2003. Fact Sheet AE23 Construction of Home Compost Units. Florida Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida.

3. Roger A. Nordstedt and Anne W. Barkdoll. 1991. Circular 958 (available only via CD-ROM), Florida Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida.

4. Florida's Online Composting Center. Sarasota County Government Environmental Services Business Center Solid Waste Division, Resource Conservation Section, http://www.compostinfo.com/

Source: Gardening Guide

A Beginner's Guide to Organic Gardening

Gardening is not too complex. Almost all of us—probably in grade school—planted a seed in a cup of dirt, watered it, and watched it grow. But creating a garden that produces fresh food and flowers all season is not so elementary, especially to those who did not grow up gardening. 

So we've compiled this guide to the basics of organic gardening and the keys to success we've learned over the years. When you're done reading, look at your thumb—you may see a tint of green that wasn't there before.

Planting Seeds

1. Make your bed. About three weeks before you are ready to plant, after the soil has dried so that it doesn't clump when you pick up a fistful, sink a fork into the earth. Loosen it down to about 12 inches, add a half-inch layer of compost, and rake the surface of your garden until it has no weeds, dirt clumps, or big stones. Over the next three weeks, pull any weeds that come up. Raking and then letting the soil sit for a few weeks brings out weed seeds that were lurking in the soil.

2. Dig a furrow—or not. If you like symmetry and order, carve out a shallow trench with a hoe or hand trowel. But you don't have to plant in rows. You can organize your garden as a grid, with plants at the four corners of each square, or you can choose not to organize it at all. Whichever style you go with, dig shallow furrows or holes for the seeds.

3. Water lightly. Moisten but don't soak the soil. Watering before rather than after planting the seeds protects them from being swamped, or washed up and out of the soil.

4. Sow the seeds. Spread the seeds through the trench or place two or three in each planting hole. The seed packet tells you how far apart to plant them. If you plant too closely, you can thin them after they come up and, in many cases, eat the thinnings.

5. Cover with soil. As a rule of thumb, bury seeds only about as deep as their diameter. Sprinkle soil on top of the seeds, pressing gently to ensure they have contact with the soil. A few seeds, such as lettuce and dill, need light to sprout, so cover them sparingly. (Seed packets tell you if they need light to germinate.)

6. Keep moist. Sprinkle water on the seedbed whenever the surface is dry until all the seeds have sprouted.

Key to success: Add compost to planting holes to improve the soil's structure, provide slow-release nutrients, and activate the beneficial microbes in the soil.

Six Essential Tools

• Trowel
• Hand-weeding tool
• Hoe
• Pruners
• Fork
• Spade

Transplanting:

These steps apply to vegetables you get in packs at the garden center, as well as annual and perennial flowers. 

1. Dig a hole. Make the planting hole as deep as the plant's container and about double the diameter. 

2. Water the plant. Give it a drink before planting, because until the roots start growing, they can't draw water from the soil. 

3. Remove the plant from the pot. Place your hand on top of the pot, with your fingers around the plant's stem. Turn the pot upside down and gently squeeze it or push the plant out from the bottom with your other hand. If you must tug it out, pull it by its leaves rather than the stem (if a leaf comes off, no harm done; damage the stem, and the plant will not survive). 

4. Check the roots. If the roots have wrapped around and around the plant, gently pull a few loose with your fingers. 

5. Place it in the hole. Set the plant in the hole at the same depth it was in its pot, generally where the stem meets the roots. Tomatoes are an exception to this rule—plant them deeper. 

 6. Replace soil and then water. Backfill the hole with the soil you removed and press gently to ensure that the roots have solid contact with the soil. Be sure the soil stays consistently moist until you see the plant start to grow. 

Key to success: Transplant on an overcast day to give the plants a chance to adjust to their new home without being withered by direct sun.

Managing Weeds:

Weeds siphon water and nutrients away from your garden w, they can harbor pests, and they sure can make your garden look a mess. But you don't need to spray toxic herbicides, which are harmful to people, pets, and wildlife, to keep plant invaders out of your organic garden. Use these strategies instead.

Mulch. Keep your soil covered at all times to prevent light from reaching weed seeds. Spread a thick layer (2 or more inches deep) of organic mulch—straw, dried grass clippings, shredded leaves—on your garden each spring and replenish it throughout the growing season. Bonus: The mulch nourishes your soil as it decomposes. For even better weed protection, use several sheets of newspaper, kraft paper (such as grocery bags), or cardboard under these mulches. They are nearly impenetrable by weeds.

Hand-pull. Sounds like a lot of work, we know. But pulling out a few weeds every day or at least every week keeps them from getting out of control and brings you up close to your garden so you can inspect your plants for problems. Keep a bale of straw or a pile of grass clippings on hand so you'll have mulch on demand to help prevent weeds from returning after you've pulled them.

Hoe. Use a hoe's sharp edge to sever weed stems from their roots just below the soil surface. Forget about the square-headed traditional garden hoe for this job—get a stirrup-shaped oscillating or a swan-neck hoe instead. To hoe your garden without cultivating a backache, hold the hoe as you would a broom.

Spread corn. You can suppress the growth of weed seeds early in the season by spreading corn-gluten meal. This works best in established lawns. Corn-gluten meal, a by-product of corn processing that is safe for people, pets, and wildlife, inhibits the germination of seeds and fertilizes at the same time. Bear in mind, once the weeds have grown beyond the sprout stage, corn gluten does not affect them. Also, corn gluten doesn't discriminate between seeds you want to sprout and those you don't want, so avoid using corn-gluten meal where and when you've sown seeds.

Solarize. Where you have a persistent weed problem or you need to clear a thick mat of weeds from a brand-new bed, enlist the sun's help. In late spring or early summer, pull, hoe, or rake out as many weeds as you can from the bed. Then moisten the soil and cover it with a tight layer of clear plastic, weighting or burying the edges. Leave the plastic in place for six weeks so the sun cooks any remaining weed seeds.

Be persistent. This is your most important long-range weapon against weeds. Mulch, and pull or hoe the weeds for a few minutes whenever you visit your garden. Do these things consistently for a few seasons, and you will slowly but surely expel problem invaders for good.

Key to success: Weeds come out easily when the soil is moist, so think of a summer rainstorm as an opportunity to free your garden from a weed infestation.

Use This.....................Not That
Fish and seaweed fertilizer..Miracle-Gro
Insecticidal soap............Sevin
Clove oil herbicide..........Roundup
Compost......................Bagged synthetic fertilizer

Controlling Pests:

Whenever you see insects in your garden, remember this: Most are no threat to plants, many are even beneficial, and all of them, even the pests that eat your plants, are an integral part of the ecosystem you are cultivating. But what do you do when the pests seem to have the upper hand? You don't want to enforce a "no-fly zone" with pesticides. They're dangerous for you to have and to use, and they harm wildlife and contaminate water. Instead, use safe, organic techniques and products to keep the pests in balance.

Grow healthy plants. The best defenses against insect attack are preventive measures. Pests target weak or unhealthy plants, so choose plants that are suited to the conditions you are putting them in and they'll be less stressed. Don't let plants be too wet, too dry, or too shaded. Use lots of compost, but be sparing with high-nitrogen fertilizers, if you must use them at all.

Integrate, don't segregate. Mix different vegetables, herbs, and flowers together in your beds. This keeps pests from zeroing in on a whole crop of their target plant.

Encourage Pests' Predators. The most effective and natural way to control pests is to rely on the food chain. Plant herbs and flowers among your vegetables to lure predatory insects such as ladybugs and green lacewings, which feed on flowers' nectar while their larvae consume pests. Put out a birdbath to enlist the appetites of songbirds to your cause. Treat toads, lizards, and garter snakes as welcome allies, too.

Build Barriers. Row cover is a woven fabric that lets light, air, and water reach plants, but keeps pests (including deer) away from them. You'll find it in local garden centers, in catalogs, and online. The best-known brand is Reemay.

Target The Treatment. When prevention is no match for infestation, take the time to choose the right organic tool to solve your problem. Start by making sure you have correctly identified the pest and confirmed it is the cause of the symptoms you've found. Consult your local Cooperative Extension office (csrees.usda.gov) if you need help. 

Then, depending on the pest, you can arm yourself with soap or hot-pepper sprays, horticultural oil, or Bacillus thuringiensis, a naturally occurring bacterium that disrupts the digestion of caterpillars and other leaf-eaters.

Surrender. As we said, insects attack plants under stress. Do you have enough healthy plants to spare the sickly ones? Can you restore sickly plants to robust health so they can resist insect attack? If not, let the pests do their worst, then watch as their predators flock to your garden and protect your healthy plants.

Key To Success: Check the undersides of leaves when applying organic pest control—insects often hide out of sight.

Source of Article: http://www.organicgardening.com/

How to Use Eggshells on Tomato Plants

by Melissa Lewis, Demand Media

Tomatoes are susceptible to blossom end rot, which first appears at the bottoms of the fruit, opposite the stems. Caused from a calcium deficiency, blossom end rot can be prevented if extra calcium is available in the soil for the tomato plants to absorb. Eggshells can provide this extra calcium and, if applied at planting time, help avoid this problem so you can reap a plentiful, healthy tomato harvest.

1

Pulverize eggshells in a blender until they are finely crushed. Blended eggshells decompose quickly to enrich the soil with calcium at a faster rate than those that are not ground up.

2

Place crushed eggshells in a freezer-safe plastic bag or container, and set it in the freezer to save until planting time. You'll need the equivalent of approximately 12 eggshells for each tomato plant.

3

Sprinkle a handful of crushed eggshells at the bottom of the hole in the soil before setting in your tomato plants.
Source: http://www.sfgate.com/

Tea Used in Gardening

There is some question about the allelopathic effects of caffeine (and maybe other chemicals) in brewed tea and coffee. Better, perhaps, to drink the tea and use the spent tea leaves on your plants.

Give roses a boost

Sprinkle new or used tea leaves (loose or in tea bags) around your rosebushes and cover with mulch to give them a midsummer boost. When you water the plants, the nutrients from the tea will be released into the soil, spurring growth. Roses love the tannic acid that occurs naturally in tea.

Feed your ferns

Schedule an occasional teatime for your ferns and other acid-loving houseplants. Substitute brewed tea when watering the plants. Or work wet tea leaves into the soil around the plants to give them a lush, luxuriant look.

Prepare planter for potting

For healthier potted plants, place a few used tea bags on top of the drainage layer at the bottom of the planter before potting. The tea bags will retain water and leach nutrients to the soil.

Enhance your compost pile

To speed up the decomposition process and enrich your compost, pour a few cups of strongly brewed tea into the heap. The liquid tea will hasten decomposition and draw acid-producing bacteria, creating desirable acid-rich compost.
Source: http://www.rd.com/

Compost Tea Basics

Compost Tea is a nutritionally rich, well-balanced, organic plant food made by steeping aged compost in water. The water is then diluted and used as a root and/or foliar feed. It is also noted for its ability to control various plant diseases (blights, molds, wilts, etc. when used as a foliar spray), to repel and control insect pests and their damage when used on a regular basis, and to encourage the growth of benefical soil bacteria which results in healthier, more stress-tolerant plants.

There are several different recipes for compost tea but the basic one most often recommended here calls for the following:

1 large container with lid (plastic trash can works well)

Enough aged, completed compost to fill an old pillow case 1/2-3/4 full

Sufficient water to fill the container

Fill the container with the water. Place the compost into an old pillowcase (cheese cloth bag or pantyhose also work well), tie off the top and submerge in the container of water. Cover (to prevent odor and insect problems) and let steep for a MINIMUM of 2 weeks.

This steeping time is crucial to the formation of benefical bacteria and the required fermentation process.

When finished, dip out the "tea" and dilute it to the color of weak iced tea (3 parts water to 1 part tea) and use as root food for any and all plants on a weekly or as-needed basis.

To use as a foliar spray or on young seedlings, most recommend additional dilution. The remaining tea can continue to steep until needed.

The following factors will determine the quality of the finished tea:

Use well-aged, finished compost - Fresh compost can burn the plants or contain harmful pathogens and that which is too old is nutritionally deficient.

The contents of the compost - It should be balanced and of good quality if using purchased compost. That which contains some portion of aged animal manure apparently remains active longer than that composed only of plant matter but it isn't required.

(It is important to note that COMPOST TEA AND MANURE TEA ARE NOT THE SAME THING. Manure teas can be made in the same way but are not generally recommended as foliar sprays and are not as nutritionally well-balanced.)

Method of application and weather - A pump sprayer or misting bottle works better than hose-end sprayers for large areas or for foliar feeding as they don't plug up as easily. Re-application after rain is necessary and one should avoid applying to the leaves during the heat of the day. Root feeding is not affected by the weather. 

Source of Article: http://www.gardenweb.com/